into history. New rules have come into effect, requiring landlords to improve space and facilities in the 170,000 attic dwellings in the city, occupied mainly by students now but perhaps some aspiring artists as well. The plebeian lifestyle has always been a major source of inspiration, so much so that some artists and writers clung to it even when it was no longer necessary. Smelly surroundings, broken taps and discoloured walls generate a sense of tragedy.